Scientific Facts
| Common Name: | Green-rumped Parrotlet |
| Scientific Name: | Forpus Passerinus |
| Life Span: | 20-25 years |
| Size: | 5 inches |
| Habitat: | Dry forest edges, scrublands |
| Country of Origin: | South America |
Physical Description
The Green-rumped Parrotlet is a kind of parrot in a very small size. It is around 5 inches long and weighs 23 grams.
The adult male Green-rumped Parrotlet has underparts that are a bit paler. Its upperparts, particularly the rump and back, are deep green, although the rump can be brighter yet also tinged blue. The wings are featured of dark blue fundamental coverts, slightly blue secondaries, and pale blue bigger coverts. The underwings are generally dark blue. The head, composing of the cheeks and the forehead are paler compared to the crown. The nape is slightly green with greyish color. Its hooked bill is like a pinkish-horn. The eyes are brown and are incorporated with greyish white eye-ring. The feet and legs are pinkish-brown.
The adult female Green-rumped Parrotlet, on the other hand, has the same appearance as the male Green-rumped Parrotlet except that their wings have no blue feathers. Rather, its feathers are generally green. Their underparts are faded yellowish green. The forehead and optic area in yellow color.
The young Green-rumped Parrotlet looks similar to the adult.
Lifespan
Green-rumped Parrotlets are believed to have a lifespan of around 20 to 25 years. Nevertheless, it is seen that the average lifespan is more likely to be 10 to 20 years relying on the inbreeding bloodlines, breeding, diet, and health. In the US, the average lifespan of Green-rumped Parrotlets seems to get lower, considering the inbreeding, which has intervened over the past 20 years as an output of not having to import any new bloodlines or birds into the country.
Eating Habits
Green-rumped Parrotlets eat a diet of suitably-sized bird pellets, mixed with a little quantity of finely grounded vegetables and fruits. They also need water to drink every day.
Sleeping Habits
Stimulate restful sleep in your pet by providing it a relaxing, dark, and subdue area to sleep every night-time. The Green-Rumped Parrotlet must be able to get sleep of at least 10 hours for it to get a restful sleep.
Development and Reproduction
The season of breeding differs on the geographic range. It takes refuge in cavities, digs in tree trunks, stumps, and limbs. Female Green-rumped Parrotlets lay around 5 white eggs. Incubation stays around 2 weeks, chiefly by the female. The male bird feeds her in this period. The nesting period stays for 4 to 5 weeks. Around half of the female Green-rumped Parrotlets in the wild have a second clutch.
How to Breed
Determining the Sexes
An essential characteristic of Green-rumped Parrotlets is that are sexually representing two unique forms. This implies that their sexes may be determined through visual examination by simply taking a look at the parrotlets, which makes the pairing of birds easier and does not need genetic or surgical sexing.
The male Green-rumped Parrotlets have rumps in green color. Their wings have primary and secondary feathers in intense blue. Underneath the wing is a blue spot. Female Green-rumped Parrotlets, on the other hand, look similar to males except that they do not have the blue indicating in the wings, and there are times that their foreheads have yellow colors. Even the birds as young as 3 weeks old can be sexed through the coloration of their wings.
Courtship and Mating
The act of courtship is demonstrated by an obeyed head, wing, and tail movements that were established by both male and female parrotlets during the period of the nestling cycle and noticed to happen most eminently during the period of courtship. The behavior or courtship was often followed by partners going inside the nest cavity. The bowing of head leads the bird to bend its body forward, and the head swinging up and down normally directed to the opening of a probable nest cavity. There are times that the tail was raised in the air while the head is moving downwards. This behavior normally lasts for some seconds, up to one and a half minutes. The bowing of head is commonly executed together with “tail fanning”.
Tail fanning is a behavior where the tail feathers fan out open in a way that it looks like a fan. Wing flashing, on the other hand, is classified into 3 types, namely: full spread, quick flicks, and shake and slow lifts. Wing flashing is done by almost all-male Green-rumped parrotlets.
Nipping encounters are the same with allopreening, where couples nip the bills’ legs and feet of each other. During copulation, courtship feeding is also noticed. In many cases, females plead to start this action by bending forward, then opening the beak and moving the head back and forth continuously. Before they get into feeding the female, the male bird should first expel the food. This is done by twirling the head in an ellipsoidal approach from side to side. Then the couple fastens their beak at right angles so that food can be dispatched to the female. The male normally executes “quick flicks” and “full spreads” while they move towards the female and “nipping encounters” before positioning.
Copulation can last up to 7 days before the eggs are cumulated until 6 days after the termination of egg-laying. After their intercourse, the couple immerses in allopreening. After that, they go back to their nest cavity.
Eggs and Incubation
Under common circumstances, the essential factor in a triumphant incubation is the heat. Provided that the egg receives enough heat and is not allowed to be deprived of heat over an excessive period, everything is expected to work well. This is certain even if the definite temperature of the egg varies dreadfully when the mother is not in the nest. Hens that seldom leave the nest do not exhibit a notably greater hatch rate compared to those that regularly leaves the nest. Basing from this, it is fair to say that eggs have developed to be less vulnerable to temperature reductions that to other more uncommon conditions.
The specific thing that the Green-rumped Parrotlets cannot do despite how much effort they exert is to overheat an egg, although this can be made possible through an incubator. Overheating is one thing that an egg is very vulnerable to and may lead to death. Successful temperatures range from 98.7 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
Humidity
Humidity that ranges from 38 to 52 percent has been applied by many experts under various circumstances. An egg must go through a particular percentage of weight loss during the period of incubation. Weight loss is acquired by water evaporation through the shell’s pores. Considering that the increase in incubation temperature may cut the time for the chick to hatch, it means that there is minimal time for the needed water loss to happen. If applying these greater temperatures, the reduced humidity must be applied to let appropriate water loss during the quickened period. Alternatively, if reduced temperatures are applied, the chick shall consume a long time to hatch, and greater humidity must be applied to prevent the excessive evaporation from happening.
Turning
The frequency of turning per day is still a subject to discuss. Research backs up the theory that says that eggs must be turned between 12 to 24 times per day. Nevertheless, some people believe that between 4 to 8 times per day can be enough.
Vibration
Vibration is also responsible for temporality in the shell. Minor distinctions in mounting formations, age, and types of fan motors applied, may contribute a great impact on the quantity of vibration that is transmitted from the incubator to the eggs. However, eggs in normal status are incubated in an environment that is vibration-free.
Hatchlings
Newly hatched parrotlets are entirely defenseless. The pipping of the egg is done by making use of the white egg tooth in the egg. They are stripped of feathers and entirely pink. The eyes are closed since they are not fully developed. The feet are just sufficiently strong, so they can support themselves in getting back upstanding in case they fall over. The mother bird keeps in incubating and brooding her chicks during the first week, considering that the chicks are vulnerable and bared. After this moment, both parents use most of their time rummaging away from the nest and going back every 30 to 90 minutes to give the chicks seeds for their feeding. In the first 10 days, you will notice just very little evolvements in physical appearance except for the improvement in size. The eyes start to develop, and the beaks turn more outlined. During this time, the chicks are expected to get sufficient strength as well as coordination to move about, sit up, and beg.
During the first 10 to 20 days, the young bird acquires pin feathers. In the next few days, these pin feathers come up to show feathers in bright green color. On day 25, these young birds appear to look more like adults. At this stage, they are comparably motile as they start to ascend and plead for food. In the nest, they perform a lot of flapping and stretching as they develop muscles in preparation for their first take-off. On day 30, the oldest parrotlet is set to abandon the nest. The parents would have to divide their time between the chicks that have moved out from the nest and the remaining chicks. At times, this puts pressure on the young birds to move out of the nest too.
Common Health Problems
Its small in size does not imply that Green-Rumped Parrotlets are weak birds. These birds are, in truth, comparably strong and brag good health conditions. To preserve this kind of living, you must inhibit the biggest dangers like neglect, drafts, and cold temperature.
Certain indications that demonstrate sickness in your pet is the difficulty in breathing, apathy, loss of appetite, and listlessness. Washing of dishes must be done regularly. They will guarantee proper hygiene.
Plucking of Feathers
Rumpled, thin, uneven, or blunt feathers may be an indication that something is not right with your pet. A parasite or a disease can trigger the feathers to befall. It can also be that the bird is pulling them out due to stress. If the pet lives alone and pulls out its feathers, which could mean that the pet is lonely and not sick. Nevertheless, it is still useful to consult with your veterinarian, although you may also consider giving your pet a companion.
Parrot Fever
Cocking the eyes may imply that the eyes are swollen or sore. This can be triggered by various diseases such as parrot fever. Parrot fever is a serious condition, and it can be transmitted to humans. It is important that you immediately consult your veterinarian if you notice this symptom to your bird. To avoid being affected by this disease, put a face mask, and wear gloves each time you clean the cage.
Dehydration
If you notice the surrounding area of the eyes of your pet is crumpled, it could mean that your pet is suffering from dehydration. Immediately consult your vet for help.
Diarrhea
Diarrhea can commonly happen in Green-rumped Parrotlets due to chocolate poisoning. As this condition advances, the central nervous system of the bird gets affected, which first causes seizures and, ultimately, death. Seek help from your trusted veterinarian.
Respiratory Problems
If the Green-rumped Parrotlet is breathing very fast or producing sounds similar to wheezing, it could mean that the pet has a respiratory problem. It can be just a simple cold, or it can be something serious. If the pet is noticed to breathe fast and holding its wings out from the body, it may be overheated. If this is just the case, cool down the area and give it some clean water.
Preventing Illnesses
Try not handling the Green-rumped Parrotlet on the first 3 to 4 days after bringing it in your home. This will give your pet enough time to adjust. Essentially, the best way to prevent illnesses in Green-rumped Parrotlets is to feed them with a proper diet. It is also important that you give them a comfortable place to stay, particularly a cage that allows them to move comfortably.
Behavior
Green-Rumped Parrotlets are playful, wacky, and curious. In a group of two or more, these birds can get a bit persistent and sectional, but with their own, they are overall friendly.
These birds are ideal pets in the house because they are generally not clamorous. Although they do twittering and chirps, they are not heavy or disturbing. They are also recognized as proficient mimics. They can utter again a few words in a strident voice, and imitate certain ordinarily heard sounds such as alarms and beepers.
Habitat
Enclosure
Even though Green-Rumped Parrotlets are very small, they are very energetic creatures. Thus, there is a need for the pet owner to secure a spacious cage environment – ideally at least 4 feet long. Find a cage that is constructed from a durable and solid material like the wrought iron. To be safe, see to it that those bars are not distant from each other. By doing so, this bird cannot extend its examining head. Do not let the distance of the individual bars to reach over half an inch. Use a cage that is sufficiently big for them to play, climb, and extend their wings. The larger the cage, the more favorable it is, particularly if the cage will keep many parrotlets.
Soften the flooring of the cage with wood-pellet, aspen, recycled-paper bedding, corncob, or maximize a cage liner. Frequently take out droppings, clean the bedding or liner once a week, and completely replace it once a month.
Toys and Perches
Toys are essential for keeping pets busy and happy. Plentiful chew toys are needed. However, you must consult first your vet to verify whether the toys are made from safe substances such as pine. Your pet can stay busy and even feel satisfied even in your absence if it has things to nibble. See to it that you regularly exchange the toys with something else since you would not like to take the risk of your pet exhausting everything because of too much exposure. To handle his feet, some perches are also important. Secure different perches for birds, with different shapes and structures involving each thing from rectangles up to tree limbs. Do not position the perches over the food or water dishes, or the droppings will create litters to where the bird eats and drinks.
Temperature
Even though Green-Rumped Parrotlets are very small in size, they can compensate it with their striking characteristics. They can even become fierce. Inhibit irrelevant – and essentially harmful – physical circumstances by always allowing your pet live on its own – inadequate cage mates.
Lighting
Do not put the cage directly exposed to sunlight. Green-rumped Parrotlets are vulnerable to drafts, smoke, and extreme smells. Place the cage far from open windows and kitchen.
Diet
Green-Rumped Parrotlet, like the many bird species, needs foods that directed around retailed pellets. This bird will surely love being given regular access to pellets. Aside from pellets, this bird also needs vegetables and fresh fruits in its diet. Some of the vegetables and fruits that are commonly given to Green-Rumped Parrotlet are green beans, carrots, corn, pomegranates, kiwi, oranges, apples, bananas, pears, peas, and celery. Feed it with little servings of seeds and nuts, but make sure not to feed it often with more than one serving a day.
Calcium supplement is also critical in the diet of Green-Rumped Parrotlet. Cuttlebones, which are shells of cuttlefish, are best for these objectives. To be certain with your feedings, always consult your avian vet before you let your pet feed on any kind of foods, whether fruits, seeds, vegetables, or something else.
Never feed the bird with food that has already in contact with the mouth of a person because of the hazard of infection.
How to Care for Green-Rumped Parrotlet
Since all birds are probable bearers of contagious diseases like the Chlamydiosis, you must wash your hand properly before and after handling the pet to inhibit the spreading of the disease. Regular veterinarian check-up is important in the proper caring for Green-Rumped Parrotlet. Bring your pet to a trusted vet for a medical check-up at least once in a year. Under other conditions, if there is something unusual going on in your pet, immediately refer it to your vet. This bird exhibit illnesses in various ways – from blurry eyes to loss of appetite.
Where to Get One?
Green-rumped Parrotlets can be bought from breeders or pet stores. They can also be adopted from any of the bird rescue organizations.
Before getting a Green-rumped Parrotlet, one should talk to a breeder first or a veterinarian who has the best knowledge about this kind of bird to check whether the bird is best for him. Owners should put into consideration whether they have enough space, time, and finances to properly care for the bird.
FAQs
Why is it biting me?
Green-rumped parrotlets are great pets. They love their owners. The biting does not imply that your pet no longer loves you. It could mean that your pet adores you very much that it has chosen you to be its mate.
Is a Green-rumped Parrotlet a good pet for children?
Yes. There are plenty of reasons why this bird would make a good pet for children. Despite being small and cute, this bird is playful. It has low noise levels, and its handling is easy. Kids would love to get Green-rumped Parrotlet because it is packed of fun and amazing tricks that can easily capture the heart of the family members.
Can you train a Green-rumped Parrotlet?
Green-rumped Parrotlets are intelligent and learn rapidly; thus, owners can train them with goofy tricks. If the bird becomes acquainted with a habitual activity and familiarizes what comes next, it would be less likely that they become apprehensive and shall be more relaxed and calm.
Is it easy to satisfy a Green-rumped Parrotlet?
Green-rumped Parrotlet is easily satisfied. However, this bird is packed with energy and requires plenty of activities to keep them occupied and avoid feeling bored.
What kind of toys should I secure for my Green-rumped Parrotlet?
Green-rumped parrotlet enjoys a variety of toys. It is important that you only secure parrotlet-sized toys, although it will also enjoy playing with an average of big-sized toys. Softwoods, kabobs, and shreddable bird toys are necessary, but combine it with boings, bells, swings, and foot toys.
